More men maintain looks with spa trips

By Lee Roberts

Wednesday, January 14, 2004 11:51 AM CST

Skin care - from moisturizing to microdermabrasion - has begun to take hold among the male population. Not only are there more skin-care products designed specifically for men on the market today, but men are showing up at spas for facials and skin treatments more often.

And while this trend may be more evident on the East and West coasts than in the Midwest, spas here in Racine County have seen an increase in the number of male clients using skin-care products and coming in for treatments. They're not just for women anymore.

The majority of male clients at Partners in Design Spa, 506 Goold St., who come in for facials do so for the relaxation, cleansing and moisturization they provide, said Christine Oakes, the spa's manager. Others come in for special acne treatments that feature deep cleaning and extractions. But whatever type of facial clients receive, it results in well-cleansed skin that looks and feels softer and smoother, she said.

Sure, more men than women still are hesitant when it comes to booking facials at a spa, but many times men will go at the suggestion of their spouses and find out they really enjoy it, Oakes said.

"If you can get them in here once for a facial, they usually end up coming back," said Traci Landro, a clinical aesthetician at The Spa at Great Lakes, 1515 S. Green Bay Road.

And some spas offer special gentlemen's facials to encourage the male population to give them a try. They vary according to length of time and price, but most offer some type of relaxing massage and a variety of cleansing, exfoliating and moisturizing treatments.

"We can gear any facial toward your specific skin type," Landro said.

Male customers also come to local spas for more involved skin treatments, such as microdermabrasion (the removal of dead skin cells) and photo rejuvenation (a non-surgical process that uses a laser system to lessen wrinkles, blemishes, rosacea and pore size), but these are less frequent bookings than regular facials.

Daily care In addition to spa treatments, men also are paying more attention to daily skin care at home, according to sales of skin-care products targeted specifically toward them.

Donald Hayden, president of Maxwell's Apothecary in Washington, D.C., said the recent increased interest in men's skin-care products led he and a partner to re-introduce a line of all-natural, hypoallergenic products similar to those that had been sold by the Apothecary to Washington's businessmen and politicians for decades. Originally established in 1911, Maxwell's Apothecary served the D.C. community until closing in 1948. It was reopened, as both a store and Internet business, about a year ago, and nearly 75 percent of its customers are men between the ages of 28 and 43, Hayden said. The majority of customers reside in major metropolitan areas, but thanks to Web page and department store sales, Maxwell's does have a significant number of clientele in outlying areas, he said.

Shaving-related products are still the company's biggest sellers. But facial cleansers are its No. 2 product, and a special eye cream - designed to help alleviate wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles around the eyes - is No. 4 on the sales list, according to Hayden. Moisturizers also are in the top 25 percent of the company's sales. Prices for Maxwell's products start around $17 and go up to $29, with most items prices in the low- to

mid-twenties.

And Maxwell's is one of several lines of male-specific skin-care products available today. A few designer clothing lines have come out with their own men's skin-care products, as have some traditionally female skin-care companies.

The sex factor What differentiates male skin-care products from those designed for females?

The main difference is the lack of scent in many of the male lines, according to Dr. Steven Armus, a dermatologist with Great Lakes Dermatology, 1515 S. Green Bay Road. Otherwise, men's skin requires pretty much the same ingredients that women's does, when it comes to cleansing and moisturizing.

"Men may tend to be a little more aggressive when it comes to treating their skin, but their skin needs the same kinds of care that a woman's does," he said.

There are some subtle differences between men's and women's skin due to the different hormonal make up, Armus said. Men's skin, for example, may be a little thicker because of testosterone levels. And more men than women tend to have jobs that require them to be out in the elements, which can increase their chances for dry skin and skin cancers. Men, in general, also tend to get worse cases of acne than women, but they also tend to outgrow it more quickly, he said.

"Men usually grow out of their acne after puberty, while women may have it into adulthood."

Sunscreen a must Like women, men can have different skin types - some dryer than others and some more sensitive, Armus said. And, like women, men should take care of their skin and protect it from things such as sun exposure.

"Using a moisturizer with an SPF15 sunscreen in it is the most important thing you can do to keep your skin looking young and healthy," he said.

And just because its winter, don't think you don't need sunscreen, the dermatologist said. Protection from the sun's rays is essential all year long.

Moisturizer should be applied at least twice a day, for maximum benefits. In the coldest months, when skin tends to get dryer, Armus said he sometimes moisturizes his skin three or four times a day.

"You can't over-moisturize your skin," he said, adding that most moisturizers today are labeled as non-comedic, meaning they won't clog pores, causing blemishes.

Men's daily skin-care routines also should include use of a mild, soap-free cleanser. Because soap will dry out the skin, it is better to wash with one of several soap-free cleansers on the market, such as Cetaphil, Armus said.

Smooth and clear There are things men can do when it comes to shaving to help improve their skin.

"Shaving is where the majority of men's skin problems come along," Armus said.

While the process of shaving creates daily exfoliation of the skin, which can sometimes leave a man's face even softer and also can create conditions ranging from dryness to ingrown hairs and other skin irritations.

One of the first steps toward preventing irritation is to use a shaving gel, rather than soap or cream, because gels tend to provide more lubrication, Armus said. It is also a good idea, if you are experiencing irritation or inflammation when shaving, to try shaving in a different direction, he said.

Keep in mind too, that most aftershave products on the market contain alcohol, which can dry the skin. These astringents will help to temporarily constrict pore size, but the result doesn't last long and the drying effects don't help the skin, Armus said.

"They may, for a few minutes, feel good, smell good and temporarily reduce the pores, but they really don't do a whole lot for the skin."

And for young men just starting to shave, Armus points out that there is no truth to the idea that the more you shave, the thicker your hair will get.

"That is just an old myth," he said. "Initially shaving may make your hair a little fuller, but you aren't making your hair thicker every time you shave."

Special Offer: Get 5 Weeks of the Journal Times for $7!